Scoop of stilton, anyone? Savoury ice-cream takes on the classics

Heston’s bacon-and-egg ice-cream helped make his name. Now, flavours such as stilton, Twiglet and smoked salmon are cropping up at ice-cream parlours. Are they better than they sound?

In 2009, I froze some goat’s cheese. It was only a small log of rosary ash, but it was expensive and I was going on holiday so I wrapped it in clingfilm and put it in the freezer. Obviously, I completely forgot about it. In fact it wasn’t until this week, when I was inexplicably holding a tub of stilton ice-cream, that I remembered I had put it there.

Savoury ice-cream is an old concept, but it has never taken off. There may be good reasons for this. Why mess with a beautiful thing? Still, it’s had a few big moments. Just ask Heston Blumenthal, who got rich making egg-and-bacon ice-cream at The Fat Duck and then marmalade-on-toast ice-cream for Waitrose. Going back further, AB Marshall’s The Book of Ices, published in 1885, contained recipes for spinach and asparagus ice-creams.

 

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